Calabunga dude, I'm stoked on those high primo tubes
V took me surfing yesterday. We set out to Pacifica (about a 10 min ride) to catch some waves. 10 minutes away from SF and 10 degrees warmer. I will never understand the climate here. So here's the scoop:
Surfing is fucking hard. Yes. Hard. I know I have not tried that many sports but its not like you can just pretend like you know what you're doing like say... in snowboarding. You really gotta know your shit. I surprisingly fit into one of V's wet suits (those things are hot) and plunged into the 60 degree water. It didn't take long to realize just how weak I am and how I am in dire need of exercising, but that is besides the point. So it was little me and 8 ft. long board. We had a great time together, me and the board and wrestled for a while until I safely positioned it on my head when holding it in my arm just wouldn't do it. So it was me and the board, and V and O attempting to give me advice and at the same time dodging 5 foot waves. So what you gotta do in surfing is make sure you've got humangous arms with humangous muscle and use them. You gotta peddle yourself on the gigantic board waaaaay past all the white water and then sit and wait to catch a wave. To my surprise I found the experience to be life threatening (Pauline don't roll your eyes) but I liked it!!! Sometimes you're peddling out not realizing how far you've come out into the water and sometimes you just get stuck in one spot and constantly get hit by waves. I did not catch a wave but I did get pushed on top of one and rode it all the way to shore lying down on the board. Why haven't I done this before? It was soooo much fun, although very frustrating and difficult because it is oh so hard to just peddle your way out there. So my surfing adventure came to an end when I was out there, in the open water, silence... nobody around me and I wonder what happened to everyone and how come I am so far out and where the hell is V and O when I see something floating in the water. Have you all seen that movie Open Water? I have not, but I saw the commercial and that's how I felt and there it was, a great white. I battled it with my own two hands and surprisingly came out alive and managed to save the board. Actually that's not how it happened... I wasn't paying attention and this wave hit my board and hit me right in the throat at which point I couldn't breath and saw a big white light. I'm doing alright though, just hurts to swallow still and my voice is way deep now. Going surfing again soon!
More to come on: The saga of Harry Potter and the fight to get in line FIRST!
Surfing is fucking hard. Yes. Hard. I know I have not tried that many sports but its not like you can just pretend like you know what you're doing like say... in snowboarding. You really gotta know your shit. I surprisingly fit into one of V's wet suits (those things are hot) and plunged into the 60 degree water. It didn't take long to realize just how weak I am and how I am in dire need of exercising, but that is besides the point. So it was little me and 8 ft. long board. We had a great time together, me and the board and wrestled for a while until I safely positioned it on my head when holding it in my arm just wouldn't do it. So it was me and the board, and V and O attempting to give me advice and at the same time dodging 5 foot waves. So what you gotta do in surfing is make sure you've got humangous arms with humangous muscle and use them. You gotta peddle yourself on the gigantic board waaaaay past all the white water and then sit and wait to catch a wave. To my surprise I found the experience to be life threatening (Pauline don't roll your eyes) but I liked it!!! Sometimes you're peddling out not realizing how far you've come out into the water and sometimes you just get stuck in one spot and constantly get hit by waves. I did not catch a wave but I did get pushed on top of one and rode it all the way to shore lying down on the board. Why haven't I done this before? It was soooo much fun, although very frustrating and difficult because it is oh so hard to just peddle your way out there. So my surfing adventure came to an end when I was out there, in the open water, silence... nobody around me and I wonder what happened to everyone and how come I am so far out and where the hell is V and O when I see something floating in the water. Have you all seen that movie Open Water? I have not, but I saw the commercial and that's how I felt and there it was, a great white. I battled it with my own two hands and surprisingly came out alive and managed to save the board. Actually that's not how it happened... I wasn't paying attention and this wave hit my board and hit me right in the throat at which point I couldn't breath and saw a big white light. I'm doing alright though, just hurts to swallow still and my voice is way deep now. Going surfing again soon!
More to come on: The saga of Harry Potter and the fight to get in line FIRST!
4 Comments:
vic, you definitley look like a pro when you snowboard
"that's not my board" OR
"no i won't need my jacket"
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Hey vic, there is a gay book store down here that has a ton of the harry potter books with no line. Its the secret spot in L.A. to get it right not but may have sold out by now. You always have to check the little stores.
I remember that snowboarding trip. Vica taught us a very important lesson about not borrowing other people's snowboards that day. I think she's still convinced that she took the wrong snowboard home.
will I ever live past the snowboarding trip?
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